Dinner at Chateau Country Caterers & Bistro begins with a promising amuse-bouche -- a complimentary bite-sized appetizer designed to whet appetites.

Our experience started with a dab of the restaurant's applewood smoked salmon with a dot of garlicky hot sauce and cool dill crème fraiche, which got our taste buds tingling.

Humming with approval for the simple yet perfect morsel of fish, we looked forward to the rest of the meal as we sipped wines selected from a menu that includes numerous offerings available by the glass. They range from enjoyable house La Terres for $5 to a lush chardonnay from Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches for $12.

Two ample portions of wild mushroom and spinach strudel wrapped in crisp filo dough arrived nicely divided for us in the kitchen. Drizzled with a duo of roasted pepper sauces -- one red and one yellow -- its savory, earthy flavors, along with the restaurant's soft lighting and intimate ambiance, made us glad we ventured out on a cold, drizzly evening.

With tempting entrée offerings such as pan-roasted duck breast with cherry-orange port sauce and Tournedos Diane, it was difficult to settle on two selections.

Osso bucco is a favorite so I hate I pass it by whenever I see it on the menu. Chef Scott Pierce's version stays close to tradition with hunks of veal shanks braised until tender in a rich meaty red wine sauce and sprinkled before serving with gremolata -- pulverized lemon zest, garlic and parsley. It was served atop a bed of creamy risotto.

The tiny spoon that arrived with the plate made it easy to dig out the silky marrow encased in the hollow of the shank bones.

Trout meuniere amandine, prepared by sautéing fillets and serving it with sauce spiked with lemon and parsley, always elicits a memory of my first meal in Paris.

Two fillets simply yet perfectly prepared get extra zip from the addition of capers to the sauce. Accompanying them was a mound of mashed potatoes and a portion fresh spinach steamed to emerald perfection.

To end the meal we selected double chocolate strudel and a chef-made cheesecake described as "a little lighter than New York style."

The cheesecake, which grows tall and lighter-textured with beaten egg whites folded into the batter, fills your mouth with flavor as it lingers and melts on the tongue.

Anyone who appreciates bittersweet chocolate will be pleased with the double chocolate strudel encased in crisp filo and lapped with the sweet-tart raspberry sauce.

Chateau Country Caterers and Bistro also serves lunch and Sunday brunch. The lunch menu, which changes weekly, features entrée salads including one with its applewood-smoked salmon, sandwiches prepared with Cajun tilapia, rare roast beef and crab cakes as well as a quiche, calzone and thin pizza of the day.

The Sunday brunch menu offers a chef's choice menu with entrée, salad, dessert and beverage for $16 or a full menu of a la carte selections ranging from house-smoked salmon with mini bagels to egg dishes, salads and entrees such as grilled ham steak with pineapple-orange glaze.

If you are looking for a European experience without having to spend the time or money to get there, Chateau Country Caterers & Bistro is it.

Chateau Country Caterers & Bistro

Address: 2075 Exeter Suite 10 & 20; Germantown

Telephone: (901) 737-8182

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday for lunch; 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday for dinner; 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday for brunch.

Price: $$

No smoking

Handicapped access: Yes

Alcoholic beverages: Wine

Don't miss: Wild mushroom and spinach strudel, trout meuniere amandine, cheesecake

What's hot: Amuse-bouches

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